Check the pump breaker first, then the pressure-tank gauge. Below cut-in (often 20, 30 or 40 psi) with a silent pump: suspect power, the pressure switch or the control box. Pump running but pressure not rising: suspect lost prime, a stuck check valve, a leak or a low well.
What we did: We combined three manufacturers' fault tables into one order of checks that starts from your pressure gauge reading.
⚠️ Safety first. Well pumps run on 115 V or 230 V. Turn off the pump breaker before you open the pressure switch cover, the control box or a jet pump’s priming plug. Franklin’s control box tests are done with power on and are for qualified people only (“Do not touch any live parts”). Reset a tripped breaker once. If it trips again, stop: the manuals point to wiring, cable or motor faults (Grundfos). Don’t run a pump that delivers no water; shut it off and let the well recover (Franklin).
Read the pressure gauge first
Read the gauge by the tank and listen: is the pump running? Cut-in/cut-out is on the switch label; common settings are 20/40, 30/50 and 40/60 psi (Square D).
| Gauge reading | Pump running? | Most likely | Go to |
|---|---|---|---|
| At or near cut-out (e.g. 50 or 60 psi), taps dry | No (doesn’t need to) | Water stuck between tank and taps: closed valve, clogged filter, frozen pipe | Step 7 |
| Below cut-in | No | No power, switch contacts open, cutoff lever tripped, plugged switch port, control box or motor | Steps 1–3 |
| Below cut-in | Yes, pressure not rising | Low well, jet pump lost prime, check valve stuck closed, leak, worn pump | Steps 5, 6 |
| Swings between near-zero and cut-out | Clicks on and off | Waterlogged tank; water may stop while the overload resets | Step 4 |
| Needle never moves | — | Bad gauge (Square D) | Test or replace the gauge |
Causes and fixes
| Cause | How to check | Fix | Part | DIY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tripped breaker or blown fuse | Breaker, fuse, disconnect near the tank, GFCI (jet pump) | Reset once. Trips again: have wiring, cable, motor tested | Correct-size fuse | Easy |
| Switch contacts burned or blocked | Breaker off, cover off: burned contacts, insects, nests | Replace contact kit or switch | Contact kit, switch | Moderate |
| Plugged switch tube or nipple | Gauge below cut-in, contacts still open | Remove switch, clear silt under the diaphragm | Nipple, switch | Moderate |
| Low-pressure cutoff tripped | Side lever on the switch, contacts open | Hold the lever (Step 2). Trips again = low well | — | Easy |
| Control box fault (3-wire) | Box hot or in sun; overload button popped | Shade or ventilate. Meter tests: qualified tech | Capacitor, relay, box | Pro |
| Waterlogged tank | Water from the air valve = leaking bladder | Replace tank, or set air 2 psi below cut-in | Pressure tank | Moderate |
| Jet pump lost prime | No water at the priming plug | Re-prime; fix suction leak or foot valve | Foot valve, check valve | Easy–moderate |
| Check valve stuck closed, clogged intake, broken shaft or coupling, worn pump | Pump runs, no pressure | Pull the pump | Check valve, pump | Pro |
| Drop pipe or service-line leak | Wet spots in the yard; tank fills slowly | Repair the pipe | Pipe, fittings | Pro (drop pipe) / moderate (yard line) |
| Water below the pump (low or dry well) | Sputtering, sediment; recovers after rest | Shut off, let it recover; conserve, lower pump, throttle, add storage | — | Pro |
| Frozen pipe or switch tube | Cold snap; unheated pump house or pit | Thaw with electric heat, no flame | Pipe insulation | Easy–moderate |
“DIY” is the County Road Home team’s rating; Square D’s “qualified service personnel” jobs are Pro.
Check in this order
1. Power
- Check the breaker or fuses (including loose or corroded fuse connections), the disconnect near the tank, and the GFCI Red Lion requires on jet pump circuits. A tripped GFCI is easy to miss.
- Fuse blows again right away? Wiring or drop cable (Grundfos): call an electrician or pump contractor.
- Read any fault light or code. On Franklin’s Pumptec-Plus, solid yellow means “dry well”. A Grundfos SQ that runs dry restarts after 5 minutes, stops again after 30 seconds if the well is still empty, and resets if power is off for 1 minute.
2. Pressure switch
Breaker off, then remove the cover.
- Contacts: burned, welded, or insects between them? Replace the contact kit or switch. Square D says never sand, file or chemically clean them.
- Plugged port: gauge below cut-in but contacts open? Silt or calcium may block the switch’s sensing line. Clearing it is for qualified service personnel (Square D).
- Low-pressure cutoff lever (Square D Form M4): it shuts the pump off about 10 psi below cut-in. Hold the lever at Run until pressure is within 10 psi of cut-in, then release. If it cuts out again, the well is low. Don’t use the lever again until the well recharges.
3. Control box (3-wire submersibles only)
Don’t open a live box. Check it isn’t hot (“The box must not be hot to touch”, Franklin) or in sun. Reset buttons that keep popping, or a box or motor recently replaced (they must match in HP and voltage): call a pro. Franklin calls its meter tests “not conclusive”.
4. Waterlogged tank
Lost air charge makes the pump cycle every few seconds. On 2-wire motors this can trip the overload and “the pressure will drop drastically” (Franklin). Breaker off, drain the tank, press the air valve. “If water comes out, the bladder is leaking” (Square D): replace the tank. Otherwise set air to 2 psi below cut-in (Square D; Goulds).
5. Pump runs but no water
Jet pump: stop it; check for water at the priming plug (Everbilt). No water? See how to prime a well pump, then find why: air leak, leaking foot valve, or water below the suction pipe. A shallow-well jet pump can’t lift more than about 25 ft, including friction loss (Goulds); past that you need a deep-well pump (Everbilt).
Submersible: no priming. Open any closed valve on the discharge line (Grundfos). Worn-pump test (Franklin): lower the switch setting; if the pump then shuts off, suspect wear. A stuck check valve, clogged intake, drop-pipe leak, broken shaft or worn pump means pulling the pump: contractor work.
6. Is the well dry?
Signs (Water Systems Council): muddy water, a taste change, sediment, faucets that “cough and sputter”, a submersible pumping air, an above-ground pump overheating. “The only sure way” is measuring the water level; a meter typically costs $300 or more (Penn State). Also check the USGS county drought graphic and ask local drillers and neighbors.
- Late summer and early fall are the low point; shallow wells are hit hardest (Penn State).
- Works again after resting, or fails the Step 2 lever test? A low well, not a dead pump. If it’s low only during heavy use (showers, laundry), strict conservation can keep it usable (Penn State).
- Fixes, cheapest first: conserve; lower the pump if there’s room (maybe “a short-term solution”, Penn State; not if sand may clog it, Franklin); throttle or downsize the pump; redevelop the well (hydrofracturing, jetting, surging); deepen it (“never a guarantee”, can cost as much as a new well, Water Systems Council); drill a new well.
- Never pour or truck water into the well: it can damage the borehole and pump and contaminate the water (Water Systems Council). Test the water after any repair.
7. Frozen lines
Pressure in the tank but dry taps after a cold night? Look for ice in an unheated pump house, a pit, where the line enters the house, or the tube under the pressure switch (Everbilt). To thaw (DC Water): open the faucet, then heat the pipe with a hair dryer or electric heating pad, away from anything flammable. Never use an open flame. Can’t reach it? Call a licensed plumber.
Prevent it: bury lines below the frost line, heat the pit or pump house, drain jet pumps before a freeze (re-prime after).
When to call a pump contractor
Call if the breaker trips twice, the control box needs testing, a submersible runs but delivers nothing, the well may be going dry, or the pump must be pulled.
What to tell the pump contractor
- Pump: jet or submersible; 2- or 3-wire; HP and voltage; age and installer.
- Well data: depth, static water level, pump setting (well log or old invoices).
- Gauge reading when the water stopped, and whether the pump runs.
- Breaker history: tripped or not, how many resets.
- What you tried: cutoff lever, tank air check, re-priming, and what happened.
- Lead-up symptoms: sputtering, sediment, short cycling, pressure dropping in long showers.
- Conditions: drought, freezing, storm, outage or lightning; neighbors affected? Any fault lights or codes.
Tests to do before pulling the pump (“before removing the motor from the well”, Franklin):
| Test | What it shows | Franklin reference value |
|---|---|---|
| Line voltage | Supply vs pump problem | Within ±10% of the motor rating |
| Insulation resistance (cable + motor in the well) | Damaged cable or grounded motor | Good: 0.5–2.0 megohm; below 0.5 = insulation damage |
| Winding resistance | Open or shorted winding or cable | Compare with motor spec tables |
| Running amps | Bound (sand-locked) vs worn pump | Bound: 3–6 times normal amps until the overload trips; worn: may be low |
A failed switch and a dead motor look the same from the faucet. No readings? Ask for them before agreeing to a new pump.
Next steps
- Pump failed: well pump replacement cost.
- Other symptoms: well pump troubleshooting.
- Sizing a replacement: well pump size calculator.
FAQ
Why is my well pump running but no water is coming out? Jet pump: usually lost prime; check the priming plug. Submersible: low water, stuck check valve, clogged intake, drop-pipe leak, or broken shaft. Turn the pump off while you find out.
How do I know if my well is dry, and can it come back? Sputtering, muddy water, a pump that runs without building pressure. Only measuring the water level is sure. A low well often recovers: turn the pump off, cut water use, then restart. If it stays dry, call a contractor.
How do I reset my well pump? Reset a tripped breaker once. Switch with a side lever: hold it at Run until pressure builds, then release. Some pumps with dry-run protection restart on a timer or after power is off for a minute. Trips again? Call a pro.
Sources
- Schneider Electric / Square D, Data Bulletin 9013DB0701 (12/2007), “Preventive Maintenance and Troubleshooting Guidelines for Class 9013F and 9013G Pressure Switches” — Routine Maintenance pp.1–2; Table 2 Troubleshooting Tips pp.4–6; FAQ p.7
- Franklin Electric, AIM Manual 60 Hz Submersible Systems, 2026 edition (M1311 06-26) — Control Box, Pumptec Products, and Panel Environment p.4; Check Valve Use p.7; 2-Wire Motor Solid State Controls / Rapid Cycling p.11; 3-Wire Control Boxes p.12; System Troubleshooting p.26; Preliminary Tests and Insulation Resistance Readings p.28; Winding Resistance pp.29–30; Control Box Checks p.31; Ohmmeter Tests p.32; Motor Specifications from p.39
- Franklin Electric, Pumptec-Plus Pump Protection System Owner’s Manual 223424101 Rev. 9 (03-19) — Troubleshooting After Installation p.12
- Grundfos, SQ/SQE Installation and operating instructions, 96160909 (11.2024) — §5.2 Built-in protection p.15; §8.1–8.2 Fault finding p.17
- Water Systems Council, wellcare information sheet “What To Do If Your Well Runs Dry
- Penn State Extension, “Managing Your Well During Drought” (Swistock & Sharpe, updated 2025-06-02)
- Xylem / Goulds Water Technology, Jet Pumps Installation, Operation and Troubleshooting Manual IM102 Rev. 13 (June 2025) — p.3 suction lift; p.7 seasonal service; p.12 troubleshooting
- Everbilt, Shallow Well Jet Pump Use and Care Guide (AUTOJ100A2/A3, J100A3, J200A3) — troubleshooting pp.14–15
- Red Lion, RJS-PREM Series Shallow Well Jet Pump Owner’s Manual (106905101) — p.5 wiring and GFCI
- DC Water, “How to Thaw Frozen Pipes
All sources checked 2026-10-05.
Method: we combined the Square D, Franklin Electric and Grundfos troubleshooting tables into one order of checks that starts from your gauge reading, added jet-pump steps from four jet pump manuals and dry-well guidance from the Water Systems Council and Penn State Extension, and rated DIY difficulty ourselves. Page references are in the sources above. We have not tested pumps.
Editorial note: This page was researched and fact-checked by the County Road Home team against the manufacturer documents and public sources listed above. AI tools assisted with drafting; every number was checked by an editor before publishing. We are not licensed well contractors or electricians. For electrical work, use a licensed professional. Found an error? Email hello@countyroadhome.com. Last checked: 2026-10-05.